Fruit trees grafted in winter
In the past, fruit growers believed that early grafting of fruit trees was better, and practice had proved that the best time for grafting should be the beginning of spring. However, different fruit tree varieties have different grafting times. In the past, it was generally thought that branches and scions had to be stored first, and in fact they would be better to use with picking, which could prevent water loss. Change the traditional single bud tree cutting method to two buds. The specific method is as follows: First, leave 1 to 1.5 cm at the top of the scion bud, tie it with a plastic film to prevent the rainwater from immersing into the pith, and evaporate the water; then cut a short face from the bud's face and cut the noodles 0.5 to 1 cm long. 45 degree slant, gently scrape off the outer skin to see that the green is not visible, and the wood cannot be exposed; cut the rootstock 2 to 3 centimeters from the ground; in the section 1/4 to 1/3, cut vertically downwards One knife, can not cut into the pith, the best length equal to or greater than the long face of the scion; with a knife or hand gently separate the cortex from the wood, the xylem is removed, leaving the cortex free from loss; the last cut the long face inward, short cut Face outwards, insert an incision about 2 cm deep into the rootstock, align it with a plastic film, and expose only the upper buds. Replace the commonly used middle piles with low soil piles. The specific method is to split the soil around the rootstock slightly before grafting, and then cover the soil to the buds of the scion after grafting. However, the buds cannot be covered with soil, and the soil will be opened after survival. The purpose of doing so is to keep warm, moisturize, and protect the sun, which will help wound healing and increase the survival rate.