Winter grape cutting technique
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The purpose of grapevine pruning is to adjust the tree structure in order to optimize growth and make full use of light and space. This helps balance vegetative growth with reproductive development, maintain tree vigor, and ensure a reasonable crop load, which ultimately leads to stable and high-quality grape production. For grape varieties that require winter protection by burying, the soil should be pre-frozen before leaf fall. However, for those that do not need cold protection, pruning can be done after leaf drop during the dormant period in late fall or early spring.
First, it's essential to determine the number of buds to retain based on the tree's potential and framework. Over-budding can lead to poor air circulation, reduced light penetration, nutrient deficiency, and result in flower and fruit drop, lower quality, delayed maturity, and weak shoot growth. On the other hand, too few buds may result in insufficient branching and empty spaces on the vine, which also affects yield. Therefore, the number of remaining buds should be carefully adjusted according to the tree’s vigor and variety characteristics. Typically, each square meter of trellis can support 15–20 new shoots, but this number can be increased or decreased depending on the tree’s strength.
Second, the pruning method plays a key role in maintaining vine health. When cutting back branch shoots, it is best to cut 3–5 cm above the bud at the vine mouth, or at the upper end of the cut section. This is because grapevines have loose tissue and a large pith, making them prone to water and nutrient loss if cut improperly. The amount of lateral shoots to retain depends on the growth habits of the variety and its fruiting characteristics.
1. Start by removing unnecessary branches from the base, including dead, diseased, or unproductive secondary branches and leggy shoots. This ensures that the main vines are spaced properly to support fruiting. Be careful not to cut too close to the base—leave about 1 cm and allow the stump to dry before removing it completely.
2. Short pruning involves cutting shoots to specific lengths based on their maturity and desired outcome. New shoots are typically pruned to 2–4 buds (short spur), 5–7 buds (medium shoot), or 8–12 buds (long shoot). Strong, well-matured shoots can be pruned more aggressively, while weaker ones should be left shorter. Varieties with weak basal growth should be pruned using medium or long shoots. In areas where space is available, longer shoots can be retained to maximize fruiting potential.
3. For overgrown or rapidly growing shoots in the fruiting zone, it's important to replace them with mature shoots that emerge from the base or nearby area. The main fruiting shoot should be kept long, with middle or long shoots pruned back, and 2–3 buds left to encourage new growth. This process should be repeated annually to maintain consistent fruiting. This technique is especially useful for varieties with limited branching ability. For older, established vines, consider reducing the length of the branches to promote rejuvenation. This approach can also be applied to lateral branches and even rootstocks.