Winter grape cutting technique
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The purpose of grapevine pruning is to adjust the tree structure in order to optimize growth, making full use of light and space. This helps balance vegetative growth with reproductive development, maintain tree vigor, and ensure a reasonable crop load, which ultimately leads to stable, high-quality grape production. For grape varieties that require winter protection, the soil should be pre-frozen before the leaves fall. However, for those that don't need cold protection, pruning can be done after leaf fall, during the dormant period before spring growth resumes.
First, it's important to determine the number of buds to retain based on the tree's potential and the structure of the vine. Over-budding can lead to poor air circulation, reduced light penetration, and nutritional deficiencies, resulting in flower and fruit drop, lower quality, delayed maturity, and weak shoot growth. On the other hand, under-budding may result in too few shoots, leaving the vine bare and reducing yield. Therefore, a balanced number of remaining buds should be determined according to the tree’s vigor and the specific variety. Typically, each square meter of trellis can support 15–20 new shoots, but this number can be adjusted depending on the tree's strength.
Second, the pruning method plays a key role in shaping the vine. When cutting branch shoots, it's best to make the cut 3–5 cm above the bud or at the top of the section where the bud is located. This is because grapevines have loose tissue and a large pith, making them prone to water and nutrient loss. The amount of shoots retained depends on the growth characteristics of the variety and its fruiting pattern.
1. Start by removing unnecessary branches from the base, including dead, diseased, or unproductive lateral shoots. This ensures that the main vines are spaced properly to allow for effective fruiting. Be careful not to cut too close to the base—leave about 1 cm, and once the cut has dried, remove the stub completely.
2. Short pruning involves cutting back shoots to a desired length based on their maturity and quality. New shoots are typically pruned to 2–4 nodes for short cuts, 5–7 nodes for medium cuts, and 8–12 nodes for long cuts. Strong, well-matured shoots can be pruned more aggressively, while weaker ones should be left longer. Varieties with low branching ability at the base should be pruned with medium or long cuts. In sparse areas, longer shoots can be used to fill space effectively.
3. Update overgrown or excessively extended shoots in the fruiting zone by replacing them with mature shoots that develop at their base or nearby. The mother shoot should remain long, with middle or long cuts made to prepare for the next season. Cut back 2–3 buds and repeat this process annually. This method is especially useful for varieties with weak branching ability. For older trees, consider retracting some shoots to promote rejuvenation. This technique also applies to lateral branches and even roots.